Is micro solar now a good idea, a DIY example

scolairebocht

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By way of something different, I wonder if the denizens of this site have any interest in solar power and the way that maybe it can be used if we were ever to hit a grid down situation soon.


New Financial Equation and other considerations

A few years ago you would wonder if the huge sums of money some people spent on large household solar systems, was really worth it. With not very efficient panels and over enthusiastic salesmen (not to mention a very misplaced hype about ‘renewables’ in general), you would wonder if a few of these installations could almost be classed on frauds in a country that traditionally had cheap and very stable electricity.
But thats then and this is now, a heading in the Irish Times 29/10/2024 has pointed out simply that “Ireland has most expensive net electricity prices in the EU” and that would rate it then as close to the highest in the world. As regards stability some people, especially in the West and Midlands, got a big shock in the earlier part of this year when large tracts of the country were without electricity for weeks after a storm, and similar experiences coming from the USA and to a degree Europe, have caused a lot of people to ask what they should do to counteract these outages.
The ‘equation’ that this section refers to of course, is the rising cost of Irish electricity from the grid on the one hand, and the much lower cost of some of the components needed for solar installations on the other, making an equation that could lead people to explore solar now? As a for instance on the Humsienk website (a Chinese battery maker) you can get a c.4,000Wh battery for €370 while on the boards.ie website as of April last year they were talking about €2,000 for a 5,000Wh battery.

But I do not believe that financial reasons are or should be the key element here though, its still the case that solar can require quite a lot of money up front and its still debatable if it will be recouped in time. Rather I think questions about the security of the current supply from the grid has to be uppermost in peoples minds, not least because of the open talk of a major world war in recent years. But remember it would only be practical in concert with other measures: its probably not a good idea to think about solar for any heating or cooking, because the large power that these demand would in turn necessitate very big and expensive solar systems. Rather open fires for heat (which is very flexible in what it can burn) and maybe gas for cooking (small gas hobs can be inexpensive and if linked up with the large canisters widely available in Ireland, you should have a reasonable cheap and practical backup cooking system) would be better options in those areas.
In any case as well as getting cheaper, its also getting better technologically which might also make this a good time to explore the field.


Technological Advances

Solar Charge Controllers
These are the devices that you plug the battery, possibly the ‘load’ (the appliance or household that is using the power), and the power coming from the solar panels, into, and it uses some software to put order on these competing demands and resources.
Around the 1990s the new technology here was Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), a technique to vary the voltages around the system (by switching them on and off rapidly and controlling the width of the resulting ‘pulses’) so that, for example, the solar power coming in would not over charge the batteries, or the ‘load’ overly drain them. But then along comes Maximum Power Point Tracker (MPPT) solar controllers, which in a more sophisticated way cycle the voltage coming from the panels up or down to match the voltage at which the battery will accept the maximum power input, so saving as much as possible of the power coming from the panels. These units therefore contain coils that allow them to step up and down DC voltages in this manner.
Judging by some real world tests, it seems you can expect an improvement using MPPT of maybe 20% on small systems and as much as 50% on bigger ones, depending on the variance of the voltages between, for example, the panels and the batteries, and possibly the overall atmospheric conditions, e.g. PWM controllers will match MPPT ones in tropical climates where the panel voltages will more closely match the batteries

Panels
Of course technological developments in solar panels is an enormous area, with the latest greatest thing announced every other week, but the switch from polycrystalline cells to monocrystalline ones has definitely helped in the last few years. For any system you will design now you will definitely desire the latter and they can be noticed by the black hue they give out as opposed to the blue one for the older type. Some claim that the efficiency of monocrystalline cells is about 18-22% (that percentage is a kind of notional value of the overall amount of power that could be harnessed from the sun) and for polycrystalline 15-17% and this might particularly matter in low light conditions.

Batteries
This is another area where things have improved significantly in the last 10 years or so, driven by the necessity to power electric cars as cheaply and efficiently as possible. Obviously lithium ion batteries have taken over from lead acid (and numerous other types of course), because they pack a greater power punch into a smaller area, which is very important for cars. But some of this earlier lithium ion technology has serious drawbacks, including sometimes a serious fall off in power as they are repeatedly cycled (cycling of batteries obviously means the number of times they are charged and drained) and actually spontaneous fires, these batteries are significantly more prone to that than say lead acid ones (and hence can only be used surrounded by strict battery management systems (BMS) that for example will track the temperature of the batteries and close them down if they detect problems). But now we have lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries which are much less unstable that way and have far better power retention on repeated cycles (as much as five or ten times better than the previous lithium ion batteries). Also these batteries do not use nearly as much rare earth metals as the earlier type either, such as Cobalt and Nickel.

So anyway I just think it might be worthwhile thinking about solar, and if so you might like to see two examples among three categories of these systems.


Large house sized systems connected to the grid

There is a large amount of information on these systems out there, so there is little need to add to it here. They might cost about €10-20,000 and you will recoup the money gradually as you sell it back to the grid and save on your own net usage of electricity. Sometimes they are a good idea I guess, but its a big outlay, much of it on expensive installation costs on high roofs, and you would need to make strong financial assumptions of the future to make it pay, and it may, or may not, work in a power outage. Meaning that if the system is installed without batteries then of course it cannot be used if the electricity is down, and even if they are so installed the default is that they cannot be used by the house owner when that happens, but there might be ways of changing that.


Small systems using ‘Power Stations’

Recently a new player has emerged in the last few years in the shape of the portable ‘power station’. In a way these are overgrown power banks (the type of things you might bring on holiday to keep your mobile phone charged), and sometimes made by the same companies, but many have facilities on them to easily incorporate solar power. They cost about from €220 to €2,500 but are very easy then to set up with a small solar system, and use the power so created.

dokio suitcase panel and anker power station, smaller.jpg


To cut to the chase here is a very small example that can be used. It uses a Chinese Dokio 100w rigid suitcase style panel (c.€100) which plugs directly into a small Anker power station, which has a capacity of about 280wh and costs about €220. That is a fully functioning standalone system, there is no need for any other part. You simply place the panel outside in sunlight using the built in stand and then put the power station beside it (maybe covering it with the bag that came with the panel, to avoid it getting wet) then when you are finished bring the power station back inside and plug in whatever you want into it. Obviously it all depends on the level of sunlight you get, but you should be able to charge that system in one day even in Irish conditions, at least in summer.

But, as pointed out above, remember to forget about cooking and heating (except maybe a 12v style electric blanket say?) on these kind of systems. The power draw of those devices is much too high, think mobile phones, laptops, lights, routers and internet systems and maybe TVs within reason. But obviously if you were to go up the ranks on these systems, and accompanying panels, then you will be able to power a lot more, although that will cost quite a bit. For example fridges and freezers are on the margin if you like, with respect to these devices. Meaning that with the big expensive systems, sure no problem, on the smaller ones it depends. Possibly it might be possible to get 12v car style fridges or freezers working on the smaller systems, which obviously then would be much less capacity than many modern fridges but still could be quite serviceable.
 

scolairebocht

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Cheap DIY systems

These ‘power stations’ are very popular nowadays because they bring all the components together in one small package which makes everything easy to transport, understand and install. But in some ways if you were to go down the DIY route and source the components separately then maybe you could get it all done a lot cheaper, or maybe with higher capacity than the equivalent power station.

solar (5).jpg


Again the simplest thing is probably to show an example, this system here has been the only source of power for this writer’s laptop and mobile phone for the last few days and cost about €130 all in. The components are:

1) Solar Panel, here a flexible 100w one, c. one metre by half a metre.
– Clearly the great issue here is size (for example if buying a panel on the internet, watch very carefully the dimensions, moreso than the stated wattages maybe, because many retailers lie about that), the bigger size gives you a bigger wattage, more power obviously.
– Then the next question is flexible or rigid. Rigid panels have glass screens and metal encasements, making them much more durable, easy to clean and will generate more power. Flexible panels are much easier to install, because as well as being flexible obviously, they are much more light and thin and so some people just use double sided tape to attach them to surfaces. Here a strong, but inexpensive, type of velcro is used, and in fact is the only fastening used anywhere in this system.
By the way its important to understand that solar panels do not work well if they get too hot, paradoxically enough. Hence when installed on houses there is generally an air gap between them and the roof, to allow air to circulate to cool them down.
– The next debate, hotly contested among aficionados, arises if you have two or more panels. Do you connect them in parallel or series, meaning in what way do you connect up the plus and minus cables coming from the panels and going back to your system? There are a whole host of issues here but it mostly centres on the advantages or disadvantages of high/low voltages and amps. If you connect them in series you add up the volts on each panel to get the overall voltage coming back to your system and leave the amperage as if it was one panel, if you connect them in parallel you add up the amps and leave the voltage as for one panel (these figures will be stated on your panels). High voltages might not be permitted by your power station/DIY setup (the above small power station, for example, will not permit any input higher than 50v in total) while high amps impact on the quality of your cabling (hence if you have a lot of wires going a big distance it will cost a lot if you need to use a higher gauge of cable).

2) MC4 connectors. This is the standard connector/cable coming from a solar panel, with one each for the plus and minus side, usually black. The standard connector for power stations on the otherhand is XT60, which is combined with both terminals in the one connector, its usually yellow. Obviously then if you have solar panels connecting to a power station you might need an MC4 to XT60 connector cable/plug, but in fact there are numerous other types of connectors used in solar anyway.

3) Thin MC4 cable. You can get special thin cable with MC4 connectors at either end, which can be used to close a door or window on it, saving you having to drill holes etc.
 
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scolairebocht

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4) Solar Charge Controller. While you can in theory wire up all these things together as is, the panel to the battery for example, this is generally not done (its sometimes done actually for car battery starting solar panels). What you do is connect all to this gadget and it regulates the power going around the system and provides you with some figures on it. This small cheap PWM controller is probably ok for this setup, a proper MPPT one would be better but a lot more expensive, and beware of advertised very cheap MPPT controllers, they are probably just lying and are really PWM.
As you can see, the standard for connecting the devices to the controller is just a few millimetres of bare wire that you wire in like a plug. It will have six connectors, two for the solar panel or panels coming in, two for the battery or batteries (again these can be connected in series or parallel, with another great debate ensuing!), and two for any load that you are drawing off it (and frequently USB A slots that you can also use to draw power). Its two connectors because there are separate plus and minus wires in each case. You connect in the battery cables first, because these controllers do not have independent power, they need the battery connected to work at all. This means that you should connect the battery first because that way the safety mechanisms of the controller can kick in before you connect the panels.
The various settings on the controller are easy enough to figure out, including:
– the point where the controller will stop charging the battery in order not to over charge it, thats 14.4v on this setup for the sealed lead acid battery here;
– the point where it will stop draining the battery and hence cut the load off, in order to protect the battery by not over taxing it, here thats set to 10.7v;
– the point where it will start to drain the battery again if the load had been cut off earlier (it won’t do it at just 10.8v or whatever, because then it would cut in and cut out too quickly) and that's 12.6v for this battery;
– finally you have a setting where you can artificially cutoff the load at any point, you would do that if you weren’t using it and were worried that cables etc were drawing from the battery for no good reason.
On this controller the main figure it gives is the current voltage of the battery, it doesn’t give great details on the power coming in from the panels, you just estimate that from the way the battery voltage increases and from the flashing panel symbol that will disappear if no power is coming in.
Some of these inexpensive controllers also advertise the fact that they can be set for the different battery types, meaning the various type of lead acid or lithium or the new lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries, but actually that just changes the preset settings that I mentioned above and which can be manually set to new figures anyway.

5) Sealed Lead Acid Battery. Possibly even more important than solar panels, are your battery or batteries. Here is just a small, but heavy, sealed lead acid battery of 12 volts and 9 amps. When you want to calculate the overall power that it can store, you usually multiply these figures to get the watts, so its a 108Wh battery. The connectors on this battery are not all that common, probably if you had a larger battery it will require ring terminals and you just wire the bare side of those into the solar controller battery terminals. Lead acid is old technology now (although obviously still used for cars, and yes those batteries are a possibility in this setup) and you would probably like to get a LiFePO4 battery, with hopefully more storage power, instead.

6) This is a car style blade 15amp fuse, obviously designed to cut the system by blowing the fuse if it detects more than this current trying to run across it. It is advisable to add fuses and maybe switches into this kind of system, especially if it was bigger and carrying a larger current obviously. The reason is for obvious safety but also you don’t want the rest of your equipment to be destroyed if one battery or solar panel happens to go haywire and threatens to short circuit the system. This one came with the 12v socket below.

7) 12 volt car cigarette lighter socket. You can get these with bare wires at the other end that you can wire in easily to the controller load terminals (which frequently have a light bulb symbol on them). They are very commonly used on DIY solar systems because they fit in well with 12v batteries, with no loss of power unlike when you use an inverter, and can then use the wide range of 12v devices that are made for cars using these sockets. You can get all kinds of electric appliances that way, from small vacuum cleaners to fridges to lights to electric blankets to fans etc etc, as well as obviously USB A and C ports that nearly everybody has in their cars now.

8) An Inverter, that uses the 12v car lighter socket. Some car users will need to plug in a regular plug somewhere in their car, and hence there is a mass market for inverters to cater for car users this way. An inverter is simply a device that takes the Direct Current (DC) created by solar panels and batteries (including car batteries and their alternators) and converts it to the Alternating Current (AC) and higher voltage that is sent down by the grid and used in households. Hence with these devices you can plug in an appliance that has a regular household plug on it. Because of the number of cars out there you will find that the cheapest inverters you can get are these, the ones that connect to the 12v car cigarette style socket.
However, inverters like this come with many caveats, realistically you cannot expect miracles from an 8 euro inverter or from the small power that this system generates, don’t bother plugging your hoover or fridge into it! But nonetheless one of the main sockets works perfectly smoothly with this writer’s laptop, and the inbuilt USB C plugs have also successfully provided fast charging for the mobile phone. Larger more serious systems would include an inverter for c.€100 and it would be attached by ring terminals directly to the battery.

So hopefully some might find this interesting, as a kind of summer feature on Sarsfields!

by Brian Nugent, http://www.orwellianireland.com


Footnote
The approximately €130 amount for the DIY setup comes from (following the numbering above): 1) €64; 2) a 2 metre MC4 cable extension €11; 3) €7; 4) c.€10, its circa because it came with a small kit, including a 30W panel, that cost €16; 5) €23 secondhand, but its not much more new; 6) included in (7); 7) €4.60; 8) €8.45 euro.
 
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Myles O'Reilly

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That's too much for me to read Sir.

I hope other posters can be of assistance.
 

jpc

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If you have a South facing roof
And a power pack.
It could be a runner.
 

scolairebocht

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I don't think it absolutely has to be South facing, the above is North facing and works ok I think.
 

Declan

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I see most people here now have outside lights and security cameras that are powered by small solar panels. I myself have a pole light 💡 n the yard that is on all the time, powered by a panel.

my security cameras is this , powered by solar, I can charge them, but do not need to as they stay at a 100%

And they are the good ones that will rotate and track the person moving
 

BIG FAT HOOR

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4) Solar Charge Controller. While you can in theory wire up all these things together as is, the panel to the battery for example, this is generally not done (its sometimes done actually for car battery starting solar panels). What you do is connect all to this gadget and it regulates the power going around the system and provides you with some figures on it. This small cheap PWM controller is probably ok for this setup, a proper MPPT one would be better but a lot more expensive, and beware of advertised very cheap MPPT controllers, they are probably just lying and are really PWM.
As you can see, the standard for connecting the devices to the controller is just a few millimetres of bare wire that you wire in like a plug. It will have six connectors, two for the solar panel or panels coming in, two for the battery or batteries (again these can be connected in series or parallel, with another great debate ensuing!), and two for any load that you are drawing off it (and frequently USB A slots that you can also use to draw power). Its two connectors because there are separate plus and minus wires in each case. You connect in the battery cables first, because these controllers do not have independent power, they need the battery connected to work at all. This means that you should connect the battery first because that way the safety mechanisms of the controller can kick in before you connect the panels.
The various settings on the controller are easy enough to figure out, including:
– the point where the controller will stop charging the battery in order not to over charge it, thats 14.4v on this setup for the sealed lead acid battery here;
– the point where it will stop draining the battery and hence cut the load off, in order to protect the battery by not over taxing it, here thats set to 10.7v;
– the point where it will start to drain the battery again if the load had been cut off earlier (it won’t do it at just 10.8v or whatever, because then it would cut in and cut out too quickly) and that's 12.6v for this battery;
– finally you have a setting where you can artificially cutoff the load at any point, you would do that if you weren’t using it and were worried that cables etc were drawing from the battery for no good reason.
On this controller the main figure it gives is the current voltage of the battery, it doesn’t give great details on the power coming in from the panels, you just estimate that from the way the battery voltage increases and from the flashing panel symbol that will disappear if no power is coming in.
Some of these inexpensive controllers also advertise the fact that they can be set for the different battery types, meaning the various type of lead acid or lithium or the new lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries, but actually that just changes the preset settings that I mentioned above and which can be manually set to new figures anyway.

5) Sealed Lead Acid Battery. Possibly even more important than solar panels, are your battery or batteries. Here is just a small, but heavy, sealed lead acid battery of 12 volts and 9 amps. When you want to calculate the overall power that it can store, you usually multiply these figures to get the watts, so its a 108Wh battery. The connectors on this battery are not all that common, probably if you had a larger battery it will require ring terminals and you just wire the bare side of those into the solar controller battery terminals. Lead acid is old technology now (although obviously still used for cars, and yes those batteries are a possibility in this setup) and you would probably like to get a LiFePO4 battery, with hopefully more storage power, instead.

6) This is a car style blade 15amp fuse, obviously designed to cut the system by blowing the fuse if it detects more than this current trying to run across it. It is advisable to add fuses and maybe switches into this kind of system, especially if it was bigger and carrying a larger current obviously. The reason is for obvious safety but also you don’t want the rest of your equipment to be destroyed if one battery or solar panel happens to go haywire and threatens to short circuit the system. This one came with the 12v socket below.

7) 12 volt car cigarette lighter socket. You can get these with bare wires at the other end that you can wire in easily to the controller load terminals (which frequently have a light bulb symbol on them). They are very commonly used on DIY solar systems because they fit in well with 12v batteries, with no loss of power unlike when you use an inverter, and can then use the wide range of 12v devices that are made for cars using these sockets. You can get all kinds of electric appliances that way, from small vacuum cleaners to fridges to lights to electric blankets to fans etc etc, as well as obviously USB A and C ports that nearly everybody has in their cars now.

8) An Inverter, that uses the 12v car lighter socket. Some car users will need to plug in a regular plug somewhere in their car, and hence there is a mass market for inverters to cater for car users this way. An inverter is simply a device that takes the Direct Current (DC) created by solar panels and batteries (including car batteries and their alternators) and converts it to the Alternating Current (AC) and higher voltage that is sent down by the grid and used in households. Hence with these devices you can plug in an appliance that has a regular household plug on it. Because of the number of cars out there you will find that the cheapest inverters you can get are these, the ones that connect to the 12v car cigarette style socket.
However, inverters like this come with many caveats, realistically you cannot expect miracles from an 8 euro inverter or from the small power that this system generates, don’t bother plugging your hoover or fridge into it! But nonetheless one of the main sockets works perfectly smoothly with this writer’s laptop, and the inbuilt USB C plugs have also successfully provided fast charging for the mobile phone. Larger more serious systems would include an inverter for c.€100 and it would be attached by ring terminals directly to the battery.

So hopefully some might find this interesting, as a kind of summer feature on Sarsfields!

by Brian Nugent, http://www.orwellianireland.com


Footnote
The approximately €130 amount for the DIY setup comes from (following the numbering above): 1) €64; 2) a 2 metre MC4 cable extension €11; 3) €7; 4) c.€10, its circa because it came with a small kit, including a 30W panel, that cost €16; 5) €23 secondhand, but its not much more new; 6) included in (7); 7) €4.60; 8) €8.45 euro.
well done -these posts are excellent and easy to follow which is rare ----this is public service broadcasting at its finest .
I have a number of books on the subject and I wish to make a frame and in time lay my hands on a cheap lot of panels and use an immersion /storage heaters as the destination of most of the fluctuating current as a resistance can cope with big and small loads without the use of a controller .
I study electricity as a hobby and I have my own small lab to study ZPE and also ,
I have a task to do I am inventing a pair of earring's for my wife .
her family suffer from Alzheimer's in old age and I when doing research found that the voltage in our brains which is generated in the brain as voltage is also generated in the heart to make its muscle jump and pump .
this voltage is the messaging service between neurons /brain cells and low voltage means the messages are frequently not delivered with visible consequences.
in the first world war soldiers were often shot for making their own crystal set from a coat hanger for the antenna and a stolen earpiece from a phone as speaker and some wound wire and silver cigarette paper for the tuner and a crystal as the semiconductor.
what was involved was the tiny amount of radio waves were converted into energy by the crystal and without any battery the converted waves provided enough power to vibrate the diaphragm in the phone earpiece speaker and you could hear a broadcast you were never meant to hear .
I am hoping to design 2 earrings which will download millivolts and send it to her skull to up the voltage slightly -over the years I have got various items at auction as particularly in aerospace they only allow a fixed life on diagnostic equipment as some aircraft are 200 million + and I have some equipment which was used possibly only a dozen times in 7 years .
everyone is a bit cracked I am a bit cracked more than the usual.
 

scolairebocht

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This is Wednesday and this writer's laptop and mobile phone have been charged exclusively on the above system since midday last Tuesday week, and the last week has been pretty overcast with a lot of rain. Right now the laptop is plugged in and is at 100%, while the mobile phone is also at 100%.

One detail is that I tend to use a power bank for the laptop sometimes (I am a heavy user of the laptop and cannot afford for it to just die on me) but I then charged that back up only on this system, from no other power source. I haven't even used the usual car charging for the mobile, everything has been on this system. That said this system is certainly at its outer limits charging these things, I think the simplest/best improvement would be adding in another 100w panel. Just two further notes:

The voltage displayed on the main screen is I think from the panels coming in or some composite of it and the batteries (because if you disconnect the solar panels it will still read a charge) but in fact it seems to go up and down with the sunlight rather than with the battery charge, contrary to what I wrote above. I read the very small manual but its not very clear on the point, it just calls it 'voltage'! Anyway there is a graphic showing the state of the battery, 5 bars for a full battery etc.

Secondly in practical use I suffer from the suspicion sometimes that it can reverse the charge, in otherwords take charge from the mobile phone and give it to this systems battery, bizarre I know because it is connected to the 'load' terminals on the controller, but a few times it seemed to do that? Hence sometimes I prefer to connect the phone to that power bank, mentioned above, and then charge that off the system.
 

BIG FAT HOOR

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This is Wednesday and this writer's laptop and mobile phone have been charged exclusively on the above system since midday last Tuesday week, and the last week has been pretty overcast with a lot of rain. Right now the laptop is plugged in and is at 100%, while the mobile phone is also at 100%.

One detail is that I tend to use a power bank for the laptop sometimes (I am a heavy user of the laptop and cannot afford for it to just die on me) but I then charged that back up only on this system, from no other power source. I haven't even used the usual car charging for the mobile, everything has been on this system. That said this system is certainly at its outer limits charging these things, I think the simplest/best improvement would be adding in another 100w panel. Just two further notes:

The voltage displayed on the main screen is I think from the panels coming in or some composite of it and the batteries (because if you disconnect the solar panels it will still read a charge) but in fact it seems to go up and down with the sunlight rather than with the battery charge, contrary to what I wrote above. I read the very small manual but its not very clear on the point, it just calls it 'voltage'! Anyway there is a graphic showing the state of the battery, 5 bars for a full battery etc.

Secondly in practical use I suffer from the suspicion sometimes that it can reverse the charge, in otherwords take charge from the mobile phone and give it to this systems battery, bizarre I know because it is connected to the 'load' terminals on the controller, but a few times it seemed to do that? Hence sometimes I prefer to connect the phone to that power bank, mentioned above, and then charge that off the system.
if your solar battery voltage drops below your phone it will take a volt or two you can simply fit a diode on the line this allows voltage/charge to flow in one direction only --scrap alternators have diodes and you simply apply voltage to one side and see does it go to the other side and if it does reverse test and see does it block it from that direction.
looks like a little silver Barrell with a wire sticking out either end many are soldered in so just heat a nail or a solder gun and melt the solder and remove .
you can get diodes for circuit boards but they are not able for your work .
some alternators have a diode ring simply bolted onto the back and remove the entire ring and you can join them all usually they would be joined already and do nothing simply use the entire ring as a single diode as it should be able for 80 amps use .
 

scolairebocht

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Yes I think there should be a way of doing it like that, the controller itself boasts of having checks against reverse charging, but I guess they aren't infallible!
 

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